Physical exfoliation doesn’t deserve the bad rep, these 5 picks prove why

From being hooked to gritty apricot scrubs to slough away dead skin cells to completely boycotting any form of physical exfoliator, skincare enthusiasts have come a long way. Why? Micro-tears, large pores, damaged skin barrier, irritation, dryness … the list goes on.  For a decade, the internet has declared chemical exfoliation the superior choice. Physical exfoliation was cancelled. But the squeaky-clean softness? Still unmatched. 

What is physical exfoliation?

“Physical exfoliation can mean anything from using a soft washcloth or a gentle polishing powder to professional treatments like microdermabrasion,” explains Dr Nidhi Singh Tandon, board certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Art Clinic. According to her, when done in a controlled way, physical exfoliation removes just the very top layer of skin. “This can make the skin feel smoother, even out tone, and help with mild acne scars. Studies on microdermabrasion, a safer form of physical exfoliation, have shown that it increases collagen, improves how pigment is distributed, and gives visible improvement in photoaging and scarring.”

“WEEKLY GENTLE USE OR IN-OFFICE MICRODERMABRASION CAN, HOWEVER, LEAD TO SMOOTHER TEXTURE, BRIGHTER TONE, BETTER PENETRATION OF ACTIVES—ESPECIALLY FOR OILY, UNEVEN SKIN WITH TEXTURE” — Dr Nidhi Singh Tandon

The expert agrees that traditional face scrubs with irregular, jagged particles and overuse can damage the skin barrier, raising transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and causing frictional dermatitis, however, “gentler forms, think spherical beads, enzyme powders and professional microdermabrasion can be safe and effective.”

Physical vs chemical exfoliation: what’s the difference 

Social media is flooded with content dissecting the difference between physical and chemical exfoliation. The results? Chemical exfoliation, that skips on abrasive formulas and relies on active ingredients supercharged with exfoliative properties, is always better than physical exfoliation. From higher efficacy to lesser irritation, there are reasons galore. However, that’s a very skewed way of analysing the physical vs chemical exfoliation debate. “Physical exfoliation can be bad when executed with harsh pressure, high frequency, and irregular abrasives that cause barrier damage, redness, sensitivity,” says Singh Tandon. “Weekly gentle use or in-office microdermabrasion can, however, lead to smoother texture, brighter tone, better penetration of actives—especially for oily, uneven skin with texture.” 

Is physical exfoliation bad for your skin? 

While Singh Tandon prefers chemical exfoliants (like AHAs, BHAs, or retinoids) because they’re more controlled and have stronger clinical evidence, irritation and sensitivity—the two biggest pet-peeves with physical exfolaiotion—are very much possible with chemical active ingredients such as salicylic acid, retinol and vitamin C too. 

So are physical exfoliators bad? No, if done correctly. “If you have to use a physical exfoliator at home, look for one with smooth, uniform beads in small particle sizes to reduce irritation. Choose biodegradable options with soothing ingredients such as aloe or oatmeal, and avoid products with jagged shells or pits, which can damage the skin. Use it gently, no more than once or twice a week, and always follow with a moisturizer and sunscreen to protect the barrier,” recommends Singh Tandon. If your skin is hyper-sensitive, eczema- or rosacea-prone, or simply triggered, you may avoid at-home physical exfoliation.

The best physical exfoliators for every skin type

Best physical exfoliator for sensitive skin: Daily Milkfoliant, Dermalogica

This skin-loving physical exfoliator combines colloidal oatmeal and coconut milk with AHAs and BHAs, and grape fruit extracts and papain enzymes for gentle, effective results. On contact with water, it transforms into a creamy paste that lifts away dead skin cells and dullness, leaving skin brighter, softer and smoother. With no gritty feel, it’s gentle enough to use, even on sensitive skin. 

Prices start at ₹1,500

Available at tirabeauty.com 

Best physical exfoliator for clinical results at home: Cleansing Complex Polish, iS Clinical   

With just the right amount of grit to deliver that satisfying post physical exfoliation glow, this cleansing polish from iS Clinical is like an express facial in a tube. The award-winning formula features Centella Asiatica, naturally-derived AHAs and BHAs from sugarcane and White Willow Bark to deep-cleanse, resurface and brighten the skin. Glycerin, vitamin E and floral extracts protect the skin barrier, delivering instant results. 

Priced at ₹4,890

Available at clinikally.com 

Best Ayurvedic physical exfoliator: Hand-Worked Red Sandalwood & Saffron Powder, Old School Rituals 

This Ayurvedic physical exfoliator targets dull and uneven skin with a blend of saffron, kasturi manjal, red sandalwood, rice powder and botanicals like licorice, Ashwagandha and amla. Creamy in texture and gentle on skin, it doubles as a daily cleanser too. cleanser too. 

Priced at ₹1,320

Available at oldschoolrituals.in 

Best physical exfoliator for pigmentation and uneven tone: Radiance Exfoliating Powder, Asaya 

Asaya’s physical exfoliator is a powder-based formula for pigmentation and discolouration. Powered by rice bran, pineapple enzymes and papaya enzymes, it can be used as both a daily cleanser and an exfoliating mask by adjusting the mix. 

Priced at ₹1,299

Available at worldofasaya.com

Best daily physical exfoliator for dull, textured skin: Pigmentbio Face Cleanser, Bioderma 

Made for pigmented, sun-damaged, dull and textured skin, this gel cleanser uses fine beads to break down dead skin cells, while brightening and barrier-fortifying agents support healthier skin with everyday use. It’s gentle enough for daily physical exfoliation and leaves skin looking healthier.

Priced at ₹999

Available at nykaa.com